6b sport route (120 m, 3 pitches) — a harmonious line with elegant technical moves and stunning views.
Well-protected 150 m route with beautiful sections on slabs and dihedrals, of moderate difficulty.
Technical Details
Length (m)
150.00
Pitches
4
Bolts
10
Belays
4
Rings
0
Description
“Mavro Provato” was opened on 27/4/2002 by G. Voutyropoulos and L. Mandrou.
The line runs between “Fanatic” and “Gonia.”
Initially, the hardest move on the second pitch was graded VII–, but G. Voutyropoulos re-climbed the route in 2004 and revised the grade to VI (≈6a).
The third belay is located slightly higher than shown in the original sketch, and the fourth pitch starts straight up and slightly left, then trends gently right before the belay.
The route is well-bolted with 11 fixed points.
For a repeat, you’ll need a set of nuts, small-to-medium friends or hexes, and slings.
Descent:
By rappel from R4, or via the ridge using the rappels of “Pyrgos.”
For safer descent, since the belays of “Mavro Provato” have not been renewed, rappels can be made via “Gonia,” whose R3 coincides with R4 of this route.
The rappels on “Gonia” are: R3–R2 (45 m), R2–R1 (50 m), R1–R0 (30 m).
The line runs between “Fanatic” and “Gonia.”
Initially, the hardest move on the second pitch was graded VII–, but G. Voutyropoulos re-climbed the route in 2004 and revised the grade to VI (≈6a).
The third belay is located slightly higher than shown in the original sketch, and the fourth pitch starts straight up and slightly left, then trends gently right before the belay.
The route is well-bolted with 11 fixed points.
For a repeat, you’ll need a set of nuts, small-to-medium friends or hexes, and slings.
Descent:
By rappel from R4, or via the ridge using the rappels of “Pyrgos.”
For safer descent, since the belays of “Mavro Provato” have not been renewed, rappels can be made via “Gonia,” whose R3 coincides with R4 of this route.
The rappels on “Gonia” are: R3–R2 (45 m), R2–R1 (50 m), R1–R0 (30 m).
Access
About 30–40 minutes from the base, between the routes “Fanatic” and “Gonia.”
Approach time: 40 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts
Small–medium friends or hexes
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for rappels)
Helmet
Small–medium friends or hexes
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for rappels)
Helmet
