Voie sportive 6b (120 m, 3 longueurs) — ligne harmonieuse avec de jolis passages techniques et une belle vue.
Beautiful 130m route with a variety of moves, a nice dihedral, and natural protection on the upper pitches.
Technical Details
Length (m)
130.00
Pitches
4
Bolts
22
Belays
4
Rings
0
Description
"Adolescence" was opened in 1987 by D. Titopoulos - A. Theodoropoulos.
It is a beautiful line that moves to the right of "Natasa" and "Psycho".
On the 1st pitch we climb to the right on a slab with many small holds, which progressively gets harder, aiming for the triangular red block which we climb from the right (V+). The belay is above the block.
On the 2nd pitch we start by descending slightly to the right and catch the upward ramp, which is not protected but is easy. We arrive below the crux where we place protection inside the pockets, though they are not very obvious and require some searching to be good. We climb the crux (VII-, piton) with small holds and emerge onto a grassy ramp, where the belay is located at its end.
On the 3rd pitch we leave the belay directly to the left without climbing up at all, and at the beginning of the traverse we encounter its hardest section (VI, piton). We continue the leftward horizontal traverse and at its end we descend a bit to approach the belay which is located in a deep hollow of the rock like a cave.
On the 4th pitch we leave directly above the belay on a negative crack-dihedral (VI+) that protects well, and straight up on an enjoyable pitch that has everything: dihedral, crack, chimney, layback, and very nice moves. When the crack starts to fade, we exit left for 4-5m and behind the pillar we find the belay, which is not visible until the last moment.
Essential gear for repeating the route includes a set of nuts and some friends, mainly medium and large ones for the 4th pitch.
The descent after completing the route is from R4 with one rappel straight down (40m) to the hanging belay of "Nirvana" and from there a long rappel is needed (55m) to the ground.
It is a beautiful line that moves to the right of "Natasa" and "Psycho".
On the 1st pitch we climb to the right on a slab with many small holds, which progressively gets harder, aiming for the triangular red block which we climb from the right (V+). The belay is above the block.
On the 2nd pitch we start by descending slightly to the right and catch the upward ramp, which is not protected but is easy. We arrive below the crux where we place protection inside the pockets, though they are not very obvious and require some searching to be good. We climb the crux (VII-, piton) with small holds and emerge onto a grassy ramp, where the belay is located at its end.
On the 3rd pitch we leave the belay directly to the left without climbing up at all, and at the beginning of the traverse we encounter its hardest section (VI, piton). We continue the leftward horizontal traverse and at its end we descend a bit to approach the belay which is located in a deep hollow of the rock like a cave.
On the 4th pitch we leave directly above the belay on a negative crack-dihedral (VI+) that protects well, and straight up on an enjoyable pitch that has everything: dihedral, crack, chimney, layback, and very nice moves. When the crack starts to fade, we exit left for 4-5m and behind the pillar we find the belay, which is not visible until the last moment.
Essential gear for repeating the route includes a set of nuts and some friends, mainly medium and large ones for the 4th pitch.
The descent after completing the route is from R4 with one rappel straight down (40m) to the hanging belay of "Nirvana" and from there a long rappel is needed (55m) to the ground.
Access
About 20–30 minutes from the base, in the area to the right of "Natasa" and "Psycho".
Approach time: 30 minutes
Recommended Equipment
A set of nuts
Some friends (medium–large)
2 ropes 60m (for 2 rappels)
Helmet
Some friends (medium–large)
2 ropes 60m (for 2 rappels)
Helmet
