Voie sportive 6b (120 m, 3 longueurs) — ligne harmonieuse avec de jolis passages techniques et une belle vue.
“Fanatic” (6b, 110 m) was first climbed in 1990 by D. Tsitsikas and I. Agiannniotakis.
The route is located between the routes “Black Sheep” and “Tangent.”
The route is located between the routes “Black Sheep” and “Tangent.”
Technical Details
Length (m)
110.00
Pitches
3
Bolts
20
Belays
3
Rings
0
Description
“Fanatic” (6b, 110 m) was first climbed in 1990 by D. Tsitsikas and I. Agiannniotakis.
The route is located between the routes “Black Sheep” and “Tangent.”
Pitch 1 (40 m): starts in a dihedral (V+, bolts), followed by easier ground to the right and then a slab. A large overhanging block follows (bolts), which is passed on the left (VI) and continues leftward (note: the two bolts with maillon rapides after this section are not the first belay). Continue on an easy slab (IV) to reach the belay on a large ledge (two bolts with ring).
Pitch 2 (30 m): moves slightly right and upward (bolt) into a small crack (VI) and then onto a slab (well-protected up to this point with large nuts and friends). Traverse left (bolts) — there’s an alternative direct line upward (cord in a large thread) but it’s poorly protected — then enter (VII) a small water groove, followed by a slab (VI, bolts) trending right to a hanging belay (two bolts with ring).
Pitch 3 (40 m): climbs straight up a slab (VI+), passing right of a small tree. Continue up and slightly left (thread) on a slab (VI), weaving left and right following small cracks that take small nuts and friends. It ends on red rock below a small overhang, which is passed on the right (V) to reach the belay on a comfortable ledge (two bolts with ring).
Gear: one set of nuts and a few small to medium friends (up to Camalot #1).
The route has Petzl bolts from a rebolting but also many homemade bolts from the time of the first ascent. Specifically, the homemade bolts are 8 mm galvanized expansion bolts placed in 1993, but fortunately, the hardest moves on each pitch are protected with Petzl bolts.
Descent: by two rappels from the route’s anchors (R3–R1 60 m and R1–ground 35 m). If using 50 m ropes, descent requires three rappels from the route’s belays.
The route is located between the routes “Black Sheep” and “Tangent.”
Pitch 1 (40 m): starts in a dihedral (V+, bolts), followed by easier ground to the right and then a slab. A large overhanging block follows (bolts), which is passed on the left (VI) and continues leftward (note: the two bolts with maillon rapides after this section are not the first belay). Continue on an easy slab (IV) to reach the belay on a large ledge (two bolts with ring).
Pitch 2 (30 m): moves slightly right and upward (bolt) into a small crack (VI) and then onto a slab (well-protected up to this point with large nuts and friends). Traverse left (bolts) — there’s an alternative direct line upward (cord in a large thread) but it’s poorly protected — then enter (VII) a small water groove, followed by a slab (VI, bolts) trending right to a hanging belay (two bolts with ring).
Pitch 3 (40 m): climbs straight up a slab (VI+), passing right of a small tree. Continue up and slightly left (thread) on a slab (VI), weaving left and right following small cracks that take small nuts and friends. It ends on red rock below a small overhang, which is passed on the right (V) to reach the belay on a comfortable ledge (two bolts with ring).
Gear: one set of nuts and a few small to medium friends (up to Camalot #1).
The route has Petzl bolts from a rebolting but also many homemade bolts from the time of the first ascent. Specifically, the homemade bolts are 8 mm galvanized expansion bolts placed in 1993, but fortunately, the hardest moves on each pitch are protected with Petzl bolts.
Descent: by two rappels from the route’s anchors (R3–R1 60 m and R1–ground 35 m). If using 50 m ropes, descent requires three rappels from the route’s belays.
Access
Approximately 25–30 minutes via the African trail, with a short final uphill section before the base of the route.
Approach time: 30 minutes
Recommended Equipment
full set of nuts and several small to medium friends (up to Camalot #1).
12–14 quickdraws, slings, and cords for natural protection.
Double 60 m ropes, or alternatively 50 m ropes (requiring 3 rappels for descent).
Helmet mandatory.
12–14 quickdraws, slings, and cords for natural protection.
Double 60 m ropes, or alternatively 50 m ropes (requiring 3 rappels for descent).
Helmet mandatory.
