Voie sportive 6b (120 m, 3 longueurs) — ligne harmonieuse avec de jolis passages techniques et une belle vue.
Classic and impressive 420 m route, with sustained difficulty and a dominance of dihedrals along the way.
Technical Details
Length (m)
420.00
Pitches
11
Bolts
0
Belays
0
Rings
0
Description
“Rubicon” (6b, 420 m) was opened on 17 March 1978 by E. Mailander, N. Mailander, and E. Weiss.
The route is divided into two sections:
The lower section (III, 150 m) follows the ridge, leading up to the large ledge of the main face.
The upper section (VII-, 270 m) continues mainly through dihedrals, reaching the summit ridge.
It is a very beautiful and complete route, featuring all styles of climbing, though dihedrals dominate. Protection placements are generally straightforward, but the climb remains serious and sustained throughout. In the upper part, grass and vegetation may appear on the 3rd and 4th pitches, and there is some loose rock on the 6th pitch. The 6th and 7th pitches can be combined into one 50 m pitch, but careful rope management is required.
The route is divided into two sections:
The lower section (III, 150 m) follows the ridge, leading up to the large ledge of the main face.
The upper section (VII-, 270 m) continues mainly through dihedrals, reaching the summit ridge.
It is a very beautiful and complete route, featuring all styles of climbing, though dihedrals dominate. Protection placements are generally straightforward, but the climb remains serious and sustained throughout. In the upper part, grass and vegetation may appear on the 3rd and 4th pitches, and there is some loose rock on the 6th pitch. The 6th and 7th pitches can be combined into one 50 m pitch, but careful rope management is required.
Access
Approach:
About 45 minutes from the beach via the western path leading to the summit.
Descent:
After completing the route, there are two options:
5 minutes walking along the ridge to the well with the oak trees, then a marked path on the east side leads down to the road to Ano Vasiliki. This is the easiest way but requires transport to return to Kryoneri.
Alternatively, from the same well, another trail descends on the west side of the mountain, taking about 2 hours back to Kryoneri, passing by the base of the Rubicon ridge.
About 45 minutes from the beach via the western path leading to the summit.
Descent:
After completing the route, there are two options:
5 minutes walking along the ridge to the well with the oak trees, then a marked path on the east side leads down to the road to Ano Vasiliki. This is the easiest way but requires transport to return to Kryoneri.
Alternatively, from the same well, another trail descends on the west side of the mountain, taking about 2 hours back to Kryoneri, passing by the base of the Rubicon ridge.
Approach time: 45 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts (including micro-nuts)
Full set of friends up to #3.5
Two hexes (one small, one large)
Plenty of slings
Many quickdraws or carabiners
Two 60 m ropes
Helmet
Full set of friends up to #3.5
Two hexes (one small, one large)
Plenty of slings
Many quickdraws or carabiners
Two 60 m ropes
Helmet
