6a sport route (80 m, 2 pitches) — steady, exposed, and flowing slab climbing on perfect limestone.
BAILEY VARIATION (6a, 40 m)
Elegant, short sport line on Pyrgos with beautiful technical climbing.
Elegant, short sport line on Pyrgos with beautiful technical climbing.
Technical Details
Length (m)
40.00
Pitches
1
Bolts
8
Belays
1
Rings
0
Description
The “Bailey Variation” is a 40-metre single-pitch sport route, one of the most enjoyable mid-grade climbs in the Pyrgos sector.
The line follows a slab with a small arête, offering smooth flow and technical moves that require precise footwork and balance.
It features 8 bolts and a belay at the top (no ring), with a maximum difficulty of 6a.
The rock is solid and compact, with good friction and reliable holds.
This is an ideal route for those looking to warm up before harder climbs or to enjoy a technical slab with good protection and consistent movement.
The line follows a slab with a small arête, offering smooth flow and technical moves that require precise footwork and balance.
It features 8 bolts and a belay at the top (no ring), with a maximum difficulty of 6a.
The rock is solid and compact, with good friction and reliable holds.
This is an ideal route for those looking to warm up before harder climbs or to enjoy a technical slab with good protection and consistent movement.
Access
Located in the Pyrgos sector, below the small chapel of Agios Nikolaos.
Access starts from Kryoneri, following the well-known path to the crag — clear, stable, and gently uphill.
The Bailey Variation is found on the right side of the sector, near the line “Antio Hari.”
Access starts from Kryoneri, following the well-known path to the crag — clear, stable, and gently uphill.
The Bailey Variation is found on the right side of the sector, near the line “Antio Hari.”
Approach time: 20 minutes
Recommended Equipment
60 m rope
10 quickdraws
Helmet
Chalk
Sling or cordelette for the belay (no ring)
Optional long quickdraws to reduce rope drag
10 quickdraws
Helmet
Chalk
Sling or cordelette for the belay (no ring)
Optional long quickdraws to reduce rope drag
