Voie sportive 6a (80 m, 2 longueurs) — dalle régulière, exposée et fluide sur un calcaire parfait.
6a multi-pitch at Rubicon — elegant slab climbing with good protection, technical movement, and care needed for loose rock.
Technical Details
Length (m)
200.00
Pitches
5
Bolts
30
Belays
5
Rings
0
Description
“Broken Wing” (6a, 200 m) was opened and first climbed on June 29, 2002, by D. Mavropoulos and D. Tyropoulis.
The line lies to the right of “Botini–Spanoudi”, between “South Wind” and “Voyage of the Argonauts”, and can be reached by 20 minutes of walking along the summit path.
The route consists of five pitches, mainly on slabs. The second pitch requires caution due to some loose rock near the start, but all other pitches are on excellent-quality limestone. The third and fourth pitches are the most interesting, both technically and aesthetically, featuring sustained, flowing movements.
The third pitch demands good crack technique, especially in the final, harder section that follows a small water groove to a tricky exit at the belay. The fourth pitch is long and balancey, requiring both strength and precision, and needs at least 12 quickdraws if properly protected.
Although the hardest sections are bolted, a set of nuts, a large friend (Camalot #4 or equivalent), and slings are also required. All belays are on comfortable ledges, equipped with double rings, and suitable for abseil descent.
The first repeat was made on October 21, 2002, by Chr. Belogiannis and K. Kolliros.
The second pitch was originally left unbolted, but when an Italian team later opened the neighboring route “Voyage of the Argonauts”, they inadvertently added 10 bolts to this section and placed a belay 6 m lower than the original R2.
Climbers must take special care on the 3rd and 4th pitches, as rockfall is common after rain — stones of various sizes fall from the drainage gully above the wall. It is dangerous to climb or stand below during or immediately after rain. Before starting each pitch, visually inspect the bolts, as some may have been damaged by falling rocks. Over time, the third pitch’s water groove has become smoother, making it harder than the original topo grade.
The line lies to the right of “Botini–Spanoudi”, between “South Wind” and “Voyage of the Argonauts”, and can be reached by 20 minutes of walking along the summit path.
The route consists of five pitches, mainly on slabs. The second pitch requires caution due to some loose rock near the start, but all other pitches are on excellent-quality limestone. The third and fourth pitches are the most interesting, both technically and aesthetically, featuring sustained, flowing movements.
The third pitch demands good crack technique, especially in the final, harder section that follows a small water groove to a tricky exit at the belay. The fourth pitch is long and balancey, requiring both strength and precision, and needs at least 12 quickdraws if properly protected.
Although the hardest sections are bolted, a set of nuts, a large friend (Camalot #4 or equivalent), and slings are also required. All belays are on comfortable ledges, equipped with double rings, and suitable for abseil descent.
The first repeat was made on October 21, 2002, by Chr. Belogiannis and K. Kolliros.
The second pitch was originally left unbolted, but when an Italian team later opened the neighboring route “Voyage of the Argonauts”, they inadvertently added 10 bolts to this section and placed a belay 6 m lower than the original R2.
Climbers must take special care on the 3rd and 4th pitches, as rockfall is common after rain — stones of various sizes fall from the drainage gully above the wall. It is dangerous to climb or stand below during or immediately after rain. Before starting each pitch, visually inspect the bolts, as some may have been damaged by falling rocks. Over time, the third pitch’s water groove has become smoother, making it harder than the original topo grade.
Access
About 20 minutes’ walk along the summit path, then right of “Botini–Spanoudi”, between “South Wind” and “Voyage of the Argonauts.”
Approach time: 20 minutes
Recommended Equipment
12 quickdraws
Full set of nuts
Large friend (Camalot #4)
Slings
Two 60 m ropes
Full set of nuts
Large friend (Camalot #4)
Slings
Two 60 m ropes
