Voie sportive 6a (80 m, 2 longueurs) — dalle régulière, exposée et fluide sur un calcaire parfait.
Classic 200 m route with beautiful dihedrals, natural protection, and fully equipped belays with rings.
Technical Details
Length (m)
40.00
Pitches
1
Bolts
0
Belays
5
Rings
0
Description
“Corner” (6a, 200 m) was first climbed in 1979 by A. Bennet and D. Booth.
The line runs between the routes “Black Sheep” and “Tourist.”
Pitch 1 (40 m): starts on broken rock, then enters a dihedral (IV+), which it follows to a small slab with a slight overhang. This can be passed either via the dihedral on the right (VI-, original line) or by a short traverse to the left (V+, variation). Continue up the dihedral (V) to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 2 (50 m): continues in the dihedral (V+) to a point where a small water groove appears on the left, with some grass. The route continues right in another dihedral (V) to reach a slab (IV) with large holds up to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 3 (45 m): follows the dihedral (V) to about 2–3 m below the characteristic roof, which is passed on the slab to its left (VI-). Continue up a ramp, then on a slab (VI-) leading to a dihedral (V+), which is climbed up to another roof (VI-). Pass it on the left (VI) and continue in an easier dihedral (V) up to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 4 (30 m): climbs up and left on a slab (V) with a small crack (V+). You can use the belay of “Black Sheep,” located slightly left, for protection. Pass a large overhanging block on the left (IV+) and reach the next belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 5 (35 m): climbs straight up and slightly left (IV+) into a slab with a small dihedral (V) on the left, which is followed up to a broken section and a short vertical slab (V-). The belay (2 bolts with rings) is just above.
The route has no permanent intermediate protection (except for 3 pitons on the first two pitches).
The line runs between the routes “Black Sheep” and “Tourist.”
Pitch 1 (40 m): starts on broken rock, then enters a dihedral (IV+), which it follows to a small slab with a slight overhang. This can be passed either via the dihedral on the right (VI-, original line) or by a short traverse to the left (V+, variation). Continue up the dihedral (V) to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 2 (50 m): continues in the dihedral (V+) to a point where a small water groove appears on the left, with some grass. The route continues right in another dihedral (V) to reach a slab (IV) with large holds up to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 3 (45 m): follows the dihedral (V) to about 2–3 m below the characteristic roof, which is passed on the slab to its left (VI-). Continue up a ramp, then on a slab (VI-) leading to a dihedral (V+), which is climbed up to another roof (VI-). Pass it on the left (VI) and continue in an easier dihedral (V) up to the belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 4 (30 m): climbs up and left on a slab (V) with a small crack (V+). You can use the belay of “Black Sheep,” located slightly left, for protection. Pass a large overhanging block on the left (IV+) and reach the next belay (2 bolts with rings).
Pitch 5 (35 m): climbs straight up and slightly left (IV+) into a slab with a small dihedral (V) on the left, which is followed up to a broken section and a short vertical slab (V-). The belay (2 bolts with rings) is just above.
The route has no permanent intermediate protection (except for 3 pitons on the first two pitches).
Access
Approach: about 30–40 minutes from the base, following the trail that leads to “Black Sheep” and “Tourist.”
Approach time: 40 minutes
Recommended Equipment
1 set of nuts
1 set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Several slings
1 set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Several slings