Voie sportive 6a (80 m, 2 longueurs) — dalle régulière, exposée et fluide sur un calcaire parfait.
Beautiful and technical 140 m route with delicate balance moves and solid rock on vertical slabs.
Technical Details
Length (m)
140.00
Pitches
4
Bolts
22
Belays
4
Rings
0
Description
“Sting” was opened in 1992 by D. Soterakis and A. Theodoropoulos.
It is a fine route starting a few meters to the right of “Thaleia”, requiring precise balance and footwork on vertical limestone.
Pitch 1:
Climb straight up on a vertical slab with small pockets and edges, then continue into a thin crack with a bolt at its base and some old slings threaded through holes above (be careful — one is broken). Continue up to a small cave with a bolt, then move right (passing through a large hole with a thread) to reach the belay.
Pitch 2:
Go straight up a vertical slab on small holds, then into a positive slab trending slightly left toward the base of a small dihedral. Climb the dihedral and continue slightly left to a large ledge where the belay is located.
Pitch 3:
From the belay, climb to a higher ledge and enter a vertical slab (bolts) with small holds and pockets, left of a water groove. Continue up to an overhanging orange wall, move left and then up again. Follow a vertical, balancey slab (bolts) until about 10–15 m before the belay, where a crack offers good placements for nuts. (Be cautious in early spring — grass may hide the bolts.)
Pitch 4:
Climb straight up and slightly left on a slab, then over a small overhang (bolt) with good jug holds at the exit. Continue toward a thread (cord) and then up a short dihedral to reach the belay.
Notes:
Because the first belay is hanging and uncomfortable, it is possible to stop at the last bolt of the first pitch instead (the location of the old belay), where there is an old piton and a rusted hanger that can be reinforced with nuts.
Descent:
By three rappels: R4 → R3, R3 → R2, and R2 → ground.
However, to avoid rope drag and stuck ropes, it’s recommended to do the last rappel from a tree 3 m below R2, which has a thick cord and steel cable with maillons.
It is a fine route starting a few meters to the right of “Thaleia”, requiring precise balance and footwork on vertical limestone.
Pitch 1:
Climb straight up on a vertical slab with small pockets and edges, then continue into a thin crack with a bolt at its base and some old slings threaded through holes above (be careful — one is broken). Continue up to a small cave with a bolt, then move right (passing through a large hole with a thread) to reach the belay.
Pitch 2:
Go straight up a vertical slab on small holds, then into a positive slab trending slightly left toward the base of a small dihedral. Climb the dihedral and continue slightly left to a large ledge where the belay is located.
Pitch 3:
From the belay, climb to a higher ledge and enter a vertical slab (bolts) with small holds and pockets, left of a water groove. Continue up to an overhanging orange wall, move left and then up again. Follow a vertical, balancey slab (bolts) until about 10–15 m before the belay, where a crack offers good placements for nuts. (Be cautious in early spring — grass may hide the bolts.)
Pitch 4:
Climb straight up and slightly left on a slab, then over a small overhang (bolt) with good jug holds at the exit. Continue toward a thread (cord) and then up a short dihedral to reach the belay.
Notes:
Because the first belay is hanging and uncomfortable, it is possible to stop at the last bolt of the first pitch instead (the location of the old belay), where there is an old piton and a rusted hanger that can be reinforced with nuts.
Descent:
By three rappels: R4 → R3, R3 → R2, and R2 → ground.
However, to avoid rope drag and stuck ropes, it’s recommended to do the last rappel from a tree 3 m below R2, which has a thick cord and steel cable with maillons.
Access
About 25–35 minutes from the base, starting a few meters to the right of “Thaleia.”
Approach time: 35 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet