Voie sportive 6a+ (80 m, 2 longueurs) — élégante, technique et idéale pour progresser en dalle.
Classic 185 m route with beautiful passages, few fixed protections, and careful spacing.
Technical Details
Length (m)
185.00
Pitches
6
Bolts
11
Belays
6
Rings
0
Description
“Cleopatra” (6a+, 185 m) was completed and first climbed on 9/10/1988 by G. Ayianniotakis and T. Koumoutsakos.
The line starts 5 m to the left of the African route.
Required gear: A full set of nuts and friends.
Particular attention is needed at the start of the 1st pitch, where the first 6 m cannot be protected. Similarly, on the 4th pitch, the first 10 m are unprotected, except for a small nut or friend that can be placed about 2 m after the belay. The 4th pitch has no fixed belay, but one can be set up to the right of the base of the red overhang, in a good through crack and with nuts (45 m from R3).
Belays R1, R2, R3, and R5 are equipped with double rings and are suitable for rappel descent or retreat. Rappel descent (with 60 m ropes) is done from R5, R3, and R1 (3 rappels in total).
The line starts 5 m to the left of the African route.
Required gear: A full set of nuts and friends.
Particular attention is needed at the start of the 1st pitch, where the first 6 m cannot be protected. Similarly, on the 4th pitch, the first 10 m are unprotected, except for a small nut or friend that can be placed about 2 m after the belay. The 4th pitch has no fixed belay, but one can be set up to the right of the base of the red overhang, in a good through crack and with nuts (45 m from R3).
Belays R1, R2, R3, and R5 are equipped with double rings and are suitable for rappel descent or retreat. Rappel descent (with 60 m ropes) is done from R5, R3, and R1 (3 rappels in total).
Access
About 30–40 minutes approach from the base, 5 m left of the African route.
Approach time: 40 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
Full set of friends
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
