Voie sportive 6a+ (80 m, 2 longueurs) — élégante, technique et idéale pour progresser en dalle.
One of the most beautiful 140 m routes, with varied moves, solid rock, and natural protection.
Technical Details
Length (m)
140.00
Pitches
4
Bolts
16
Belays
4
Rings
0
Description
“Thaleia” was opened in 1990 by D. Soterakis and A. Theodoropoulos.
It is considered one of the most elegant and enjoyable climbs in the Firefly sector.
Pitch 1:
Start up a characteristic dihedral (with a jammed cord) leading to a small ledge. Continue through a second small dihedral to the belay.
Pitch 2:
Begin on a slab (bolt), then move right toward large pockets and through-holes under a small overhang (bolt). Pass the overhang from the right; at the exit there is a bolt with a nut but no hanger, so protect it with a small nut. Continue on a slab (a water groove lies to your left) up to a small tree (with a cord and steel cable), then climb easy ground to the belay.
Pitch 3:
Climb to a small ledge above the belay, then follow the water groove from the left (bolts). At the end of the groove, move left (good protection with medium nuts and friends). Continue straight up a slab, then right to the belay.
Pitch 4:
Head up and slightly right toward the overhang (old piton and bolt). Pass it on the right using good holds, then continue slightly right to the base of a small dihedral. Climb the dihedral to reach the belay.
Descent:
Descend by three rappels: from R4 → R3, R3 → R2, and R2 → ground.
However, it’s recommended (to reduce rope drag and avoid stuck ropes) to skip the last rappel from R2 and instead descend from the tree 3 m lower, where there’s a thick cord and steel cable with maillons.
It is considered one of the most elegant and enjoyable climbs in the Firefly sector.
Pitch 1:
Start up a characteristic dihedral (with a jammed cord) leading to a small ledge. Continue through a second small dihedral to the belay.
Pitch 2:
Begin on a slab (bolt), then move right toward large pockets and through-holes under a small overhang (bolt). Pass the overhang from the right; at the exit there is a bolt with a nut but no hanger, so protect it with a small nut. Continue on a slab (a water groove lies to your left) up to a small tree (with a cord and steel cable), then climb easy ground to the belay.
Pitch 3:
Climb to a small ledge above the belay, then follow the water groove from the left (bolts). At the end of the groove, move left (good protection with medium nuts and friends). Continue straight up a slab, then right to the belay.
Pitch 4:
Head up and slightly right toward the overhang (old piton and bolt). Pass it on the right using good holds, then continue slightly right to the base of a small dihedral. Climb the dihedral to reach the belay.
Descent:
Descend by three rappels: from R4 → R3, R3 → R2, and R2 → ground.
However, it’s recommended (to reduce rope drag and avoid stuck ropes) to skip the last rappel from R2 and instead descend from the tree 3 m lower, where there’s a thick cord and steel cable with maillons.
Access
About 25–35 minutes from the base, in the area between the routes “Natasa” and “Psycho.”
Approach time: 35 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
Full set of friends
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
