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6b
ADOLESCENCE
Beautiful 130m route with a variety of moves, a nice dihedral, and natural protection on the upper pitches.
7b+
PSYCHO
7b+ multi-pitch 80 m at Spider· exposed, technical and intensely athletic route.
6b
NATASSA
Beautiful classic route 150m with natural protection, on solid rock and mild technical movements.
7c+
SPIDER
Classic difficult route 85m on overhanging wall, historic for the first Greek free IX.
6c+
ALIKTO
6c+ multi-pitch 80 m at Spider· technical sport slab with beautiful flow and view.
7b
SULTANA
Multi-pitch 7b, 120 m at Spider· technical, impressive and airy sport route.

Arachni

Περιοχη

The “Arachni” Sector of Varasova

Varasova, the imposing mountain rising along the banks of the Evinos River opposite Klokova, is one of the most striking and historically rich landscapes of Aetolia-Acarnania, western Greece. Known for both its wild natural beauty and its deep religious and climbing significance, Varasova is a place where natural grandeur meets history and myth. Among its many climbing sectors, one stands out for its elegance and challenge: the “Arachni” area.

The name “Arachni” —meaning spider— was inspired by the intricate network of vertical cracks and fine fissures that run down the limestone walls like delicate threads of a web. The rock here is of superb quality: compact, solid limestone with great variety — vertical slabs, overhangs, small caves, and breathtaking roofs that make every ascent a unique experience.

Located on the southern and southeastern side of Varasova, near the sea of the Patraic Gulf, the Arachne sector offers panoramic views toward Mesolongi, the Evinos River, and the opposing peaks of Klokova. Access is usually from the village of Galatas or via paths from the Evinos side. The approach requires some fitness and proper gear, but rewards climbers and hikers alike with unforgettable vistas.

In climbing terms, Arachne is one of the most demanding yet rewarding sectors of Varasova. It includes routes of various difficulties — from challenging multi-pitch ascents that require strength and precision to moderate routes ideal for improving technique. Most routes are well equipped with bolts, though in some sections additional gear such as nuts or friends may be necessary.

Varasova, however, is not only about climbing. It is also a place of profound spirituality. Scattered along its slopes and near Arachne are the remains of ancient hermitages and Byzantine monasteries, where monks lived in seclusion from as early as the 9th century. The small chapels and caves carved into the cliffs bear witness to this deep monastic tradition, earning Varasova the nickname “the Holy Mountain of Aetolia.”

The flora and fauna surrounding Arachne are rich and diverse. Olive trees, thyme, and wild shrubs dominate the scenery, while falcons, doves, and other birds of prey nest in the cliffs. In spring, the area bursts with colors and scents, offering a magical experience to anyone who visits.

Arachne attracts not only climbers but also nature lovers, photographers, and hikers. The blend of sea, mountain, history, and adventure makes it one of the most captivating natural destinations in western Greece.

 

In short, Arachne is a meeting point between nature and human spirit — a place of challenge and serenity, where the mountain’s rock face gleams like a spider’s web in the morning light.

Arachni

An area with character and a powerful climbing experience

16

Routes

290

Bolts

45

Belays

Discover the climbing areas of Varasova through this video

Explore the Routes
16
16

16

Routes
Spider

An area with character and an intense climbing experience

Location

Central section of the main cliff

Orientation

Large vertical slab with delicate, technical moves

Characteristics

Large vertical slab with delicate, technical moves

Routes

High-difficulty sport routes

Notes

Suitable only for very experienced climbers