multi-pitch at Rubicon — Long, well-protected route with beautiful climbing, ideal for a full-day ascent.
trad 7b 40m at Spider; intense crack without bolts, for experienced climbers.
Technical Details
Length (m)
40.00
Pitches
1
Bolts
0
Belays
2
Rings
0
Description
"Schizmofrenia" is a purely traditional (trad) route, one pitch of 40m length that follows a prominent crack on vertical rock. The climbing is demanding, with continuous crack climbing that requires strong fingers and proper technique for placing friends. There are no fixed bolts, while the belay is built naturally at two positions (intermediate and top). The rock is rough and compact, offering excellent friction. The line requires experience in crack protection and proper rope management, as the exposure is intense.
Access
From Kryoneri, follow the uphill route towards the Spider sector; "Schizofrenia" is located in the right part of the cliff, above a steep ramp, easily recognizable by the wide vertical crack that characterizes it. Access is solid but steep in the last meters.
Approach time: 45 minutes
Recommended Equipment
2 ropes 60m (for rappel and managing rope drag).
Full set of friends (small to large) and nuts.
Slings and cordelettes for natural belays.
Helmet.
Materials for building belays (slings, rings, carabiners).
Full set of friends (small to large) and nuts.
Slings and cordelettes for natural belays.
Helmet.
Materials for building belays (slings, rings, carabiners).
