trad 7b 40m at Spider; intense crack without bolts, for experienced climbers.
multi-pitch at Rubicon — Long, well-protected route with beautiful climbing, ideal for a full-day ascent.
Technical Details
Length (m)
610.00
Pitches
18
Bolts
122
Belays
18
Rings
0
Description
“Voyage of the Argonauts” (VIII+ (VII+ A0), 610 m) was opened between April 21–27, 2003, by the Trieste Italian team of P. Pezzolato, S. Gojak, D. Crosato, and M. Zebochin.
The line begins 2 m to the right of “Broken Wing”, sharing its second pitch, and finishes on the crest of Varasova, exiting right of “Bright Path.” The route ascends the first wall up to the large ledge (275 m), then continues — after 20 minutes of easy walking — on the second wall (335 m), finally topping out on the ridge.
The second pitch is shared (but slightly shorter) with the corresponding pitch of “Broken Wing”. During their ascent, the Italian team bolted 10 new bolts on this section, which had previously been climbed using only natural protection.
This is a fully bolted route, even in the easier sections, offering a high level of safety throughout. It features 121 bolts on the pitches and 33 bolts on the belays, which are all ready and equipped with anchors, allowing for safe retreat or abseil descent.
For the climb, you’ll need 14 quickdraws and a few slings — no nuts, friends, or pitons are required.
After completing the route, descent can be made:
by abseiling down the equipped belays,
via the summit path westward to Kryoneri (≈ 2 h), or
via the summit path eastward to Vasiliki.
The line begins 2 m to the right of “Broken Wing”, sharing its second pitch, and finishes on the crest of Varasova, exiting right of “Bright Path.” The route ascends the first wall up to the large ledge (275 m), then continues — after 20 minutes of easy walking — on the second wall (335 m), finally topping out on the ridge.
The second pitch is shared (but slightly shorter) with the corresponding pitch of “Broken Wing”. During their ascent, the Italian team bolted 10 new bolts on this section, which had previously been climbed using only natural protection.
This is a fully bolted route, even in the easier sections, offering a high level of safety throughout. It features 121 bolts on the pitches and 33 bolts on the belays, which are all ready and equipped with anchors, allowing for safe retreat or abseil descent.
For the climb, you’ll need 14 quickdraws and a few slings — no nuts, friends, or pitons are required.
After completing the route, descent can be made:
by abseiling down the equipped belays,
via the summit path westward to Kryoneri (≈ 2 h), or
via the summit path eastward to Vasiliki.
Access
About 20 minutes’ walk along the summit path, 2 m right of “Broken Wing.”
Approach time: 20 minutes
Recommended Equipment
14 quickdraws
A few slings (no nuts, friends, or pitons required)
A few slings (no nuts, friends, or pitons required)
