Grande voie 6b+ à Rubicon — dynamique, technique et marquée par une ligne verticale impressionnante.
6b+ sport slab, 80 m in the African sector — continuous and demanding route.
Technical Details
Length (m)
80.00
Pitches
1
Bolts
28
Belays
1
Rings
0
Description
“Erotic Alchemies” is one of the most impressive long sport lines in the African sector.
The route follows a continuous slab of excellent rock quality, maintaining a steady difficulty around 6b+.
It begins with a technical, balance-based section, then becomes more rhythmic and fluid toward the upper half.
With 28 bolts, protection is sufficient throughout, but the sustained nature and endurance required make it suitable for experienced climbers used to long single pitches.
The belay is solid but without a ring, suitable for rappel or careful lowering.
The route follows a continuous slab of excellent rock quality, maintaining a steady difficulty around 6b+.
It begins with a technical, balance-based section, then becomes more rhythmic and fluid toward the upper half.
With 28 bolts, protection is sufficient throughout, but the sustained nature and endurance required make it suitable for experienced climbers used to long single pitches.
The belay is solid but without a ring, suitable for rappel or careful lowering.
Access
From Kryoneri, follow the path toward the African sector, passing below the routes “Plaka me Kaneis” and “Dianeira.”
“Erotic Alchemies” is slightly to the right, on a large vertical slab with a visible line of bolts.
“Erotic Alchemies” is slightly to the right, on a large vertical slab with a visible line of bolts.
Approach time: 40 minutes
Recommended Equipment
80 m rope (mandatory for the full length)
28 quickdraws
1–2 slings or long quickdraws to reduce rope drag
Helmet
Light backpack with water and shoes for descent
28 quickdraws
1–2 slings or long quickdraws to reduce rope drag
Helmet
Light backpack with water and shoes for descent
