Grande voie 6b+ à Rubicon — dynamique, technique et marquée par une ligne verticale impressionnante.
Traditional 6b+ slab in the African sector, with no fixed protection — requires experience and composure.
Technical Details
Length (m)
40.00
Pitches
1
Bolts
0
Belays
0
Rings
0
Description
“Antia” is a pure traditional (trad) route of high difficulty for the African sector.
It follows a vertical to slightly positive slab with small cracks and sparse opportunities for natural protection.
The moves are technical and sustained, demanding good balance, calmness, and precise route reading.
Climbing is done entirely on self-placed gear — there are no bolts or fixed belays.
The rock is solid and clean, offering an authentic “old-school” climbing experience on Varasova.
It follows a vertical to slightly positive slab with small cracks and sparse opportunities for natural protection.
The moves are technical and sustained, demanding good balance, calmness, and precise route reading.
Climbing is done entirely on self-placed gear — there are no bolts or fixed belays.
The rock is solid and clean, offering an authentic “old-school” climbing experience on Varasova.
Access
Approach: From Kryoneri, follow the well-known uphill path toward the African sector. “Antia” is located near the right end of the crag, above the routes “Fissure Brown” and “Drink of Sin.” The path is stable, with a short final ascent to the base of the wall.
Approach time: 40 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Two 60 m ropes (for climbing and rappel).
Full set of nuts and friends (mostly small to medium).
Slings and cords for natural belays.
Helmet.
Gear for building belays (slings, rings, carabiners).
Full set of nuts and friends (mostly small to medium).
Slings and cords for natural belays.
Helmet.
Gear for building belays (slings, rings, carabiners).
