Grande voie 6b+ à Rubicon — dynamique, technique et marquée par une ligne verticale impressionnante.
Beautiful 90 m route with technical sections on slabs and dihedrals, combining sport and trad protection.
Technical Details
Length (m)
90.00
Pitches
3
Bolts
8
Belays
4
Rings
0
Description
The “Limpouros” route (VII, 90 m) was completed and climbed in the summer of 2011 by A. Simatis, S. Moraitini, A. Piskopaki, and Ch. Benazis, while the first two pitches had been opened earlier by A. Simatis and A. Papamichail.
The line runs between the routes “Tourista” and the dihedral “Zacharini–Xynou.”
Pitch 1 (25 m): Starts directly above a carved arrow on the rock, on a slab (up to VI/VI+), with a small crack in the center. Continues up a positive slab (IV) with a sling on a hole and traverses right to a belay on a ledge (1 bolt and 1 piton).
Pitch 2 (30 m): Starts left and up into a pseudo-dihedral (VI, with a water groove on the right), climbs to an overhang that is passed on the right (VII–), then follows a small slab (VI+, bolts) to a short dihedral (VI) and finishes on a slab–ridge (V) to the belay (2 bolts with ring).
Pitch 3 (35 m): Starts right in a crack, then gradually up and right on a slab (VI, bolt) to a small dihedral (VI+, bolts), finally joining the main “Zacharini–Xynou” dihedral, where it ends at a comfortable belay ledge (2 bolts with ring).
Although the route features some bolts (placed after difficult moves, as it was opened from the ground up), a full set of nuts and friends (up to Camalot #3) is essential.
Descent:
Two rappels from the belays of the route (R3–R2 and R2–ground).
The line runs between the routes “Tourista” and the dihedral “Zacharini–Xynou.”
Pitch 1 (25 m): Starts directly above a carved arrow on the rock, on a slab (up to VI/VI+), with a small crack in the center. Continues up a positive slab (IV) with a sling on a hole and traverses right to a belay on a ledge (1 bolt and 1 piton).
Pitch 2 (30 m): Starts left and up into a pseudo-dihedral (VI, with a water groove on the right), climbs to an overhang that is passed on the right (VII–), then follows a small slab (VI+, bolts) to a short dihedral (VI) and finishes on a slab–ridge (V) to the belay (2 bolts with ring).
Pitch 3 (35 m): Starts right in a crack, then gradually up and right on a slab (VI, bolt) to a small dihedral (VI+, bolts), finally joining the main “Zacharini–Xynou” dihedral, where it ends at a comfortable belay ledge (2 bolts with ring).
Although the route features some bolts (placed after difficult moves, as it was opened from the ground up), a full set of nuts and friends (up to Camalot #3) is essential.
Descent:
Two rappels from the belays of the route (R3–R2 and R2–ground).
Access
About 25–30 minutes from the base, in the area between “Tourista” and the dihedral “Zacharini–Xynou.”
Approach time: 30 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
10–12 quickdraws
Two 60 m ropes (for 2 rappels)
Helmet
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
10–12 quickdraws
Two 60 m ropes (for 2 rappels)
Helmet