Voie de deux longueurs 6b (80 m) — élégante, régulière et pleine de finesse en dalle.
A classic sport climbing route in the Βroken rocks sector of Varasova, of moderate difficulty.
Technical Details
Length (m)
170.00
Pitches
3
Bolts
6
Belays
3
Rings
0
Description
The route “Memorandum” was completed and climbed on 31/10/2011 by S. Koukouzelis, D. Karalis, and K. Tsoukleidis as part of a group activity.
The first two pitches of the line were opened on 12/11/2010 with the help of P. Antonitsis, N. Frimas, K. Kostopoulos, and G. Fotou, while M. Foundoulakis, G. Potamianou, and E. Tsape were the first to repeat these two pitches on 14/11/2010.
A year later, on 31/10/2011, one more pitch was opened with the assistance of G. Kardampikis, G. Perdikaris, M. Vogas, A. Orfanakos, and A. Tzanoukos.
The line is ideal for climbers practicing the placement of temporary protection and route finding.
For the 1st pitch, start 5 m to the right of the beginning of “Pissala” and move parallel to “Pinocchio.”
Climb easy rock terrain, then a relatively easy gully–dihedral.
Approach the characteristic horizontal crack–cave from below, where you’ll find a well-protected overhang (VI).
Continue with a long stretch of climbing up to the belay, located on a comfortable ledge with a beautiful view.
For the 2nd pitch, climb straight up on an easily protected slab to a ledge.
Follow the thin crack (V+) on the wall ahead, then continue up the bolted exit (V+).
Continue climbing to reach R2, which is on a relatively comfortable ledge.
For the 3rd pitch, go straight up an easily protected slab (V+), then continue on easier ground (V) to reach R3, located on a large ledge–balcony.
At this point, there is also an old piton from the belay of “The Road of Flowers.”
The first two pitches of the line were opened on 12/11/2010 with the help of P. Antonitsis, N. Frimas, K. Kostopoulos, and G. Fotou, while M. Foundoulakis, G. Potamianou, and E. Tsape were the first to repeat these two pitches on 14/11/2010.
A year later, on 31/10/2011, one more pitch was opened with the assistance of G. Kardampikis, G. Perdikaris, M. Vogas, A. Orfanakos, and A. Tzanoukos.
The line is ideal for climbers practicing the placement of temporary protection and route finding.
For the 1st pitch, start 5 m to the right of the beginning of “Pissala” and move parallel to “Pinocchio.”
Climb easy rock terrain, then a relatively easy gully–dihedral.
Approach the characteristic horizontal crack–cave from below, where you’ll find a well-protected overhang (VI).
Continue with a long stretch of climbing up to the belay, located on a comfortable ledge with a beautiful view.
For the 2nd pitch, climb straight up on an easily protected slab to a ledge.
Follow the thin crack (V+) on the wall ahead, then continue up the bolted exit (V+).
Continue climbing to reach R2, which is on a relatively comfortable ledge.
For the 3rd pitch, go straight up an easily protected slab (V+), then continue on easier ground (V) to reach R3, located on a large ledge–balcony.
At this point, there is also an old piton from the belay of “The Road of Flowers.”
Access
Access from the village of Kryoneri, following the path toward the “Broken Rocks” sector.
Approach time: 25 minutes
Recommended Equipment
One set of nuts
A few friends
2–3 large hexes
10 slings for extensions
2 × 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
A few friends
2–3 large hexes
10 slings for extensions
2 × 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
