Voie de deux longueurs 6b (80 m) — élégante, régulière et pleine de finesse en dalle.
Classic 120 m dihedral with beautiful natural protection, few fixed points, and good gear placements.
Technical Details
Length (m)
120.00
Pitches
2
Bolts
0
Belays
0
Rings
0
Description
The “Zacharani–Xynou Dihedral” was opened in 1962 by the namesake climbing team, as an alternate entry to the route “Skoupa.”
The line follows a distinctive dihedral located in the Skoupa area, about 2 m to the right of the engraved arrow marking the start of “Limpouros.”
Pitch 1 (40 m): Climbs straight up through broken terrain to enter the dihedral (up to V+), finishing at a belay on a tree and nuts to the right.
Pitch 2 (50 m): Moves left and up on a slab, then follows the dihedral to a loose section, which is bypassed to the right on a slab and ridge, leading to a ledge (piton).
From there, it climbs a small overhang and continues in the dihedral to a ledge with a horn (cord). Then it continues up and right in the dihedral to another ledge below a vertical red wall, where it traverses right after a short overhang to re-enter the dihedral, ending at the belay (2 bolts with rings).
If rope drag or limited gear becomes an issue, this pitch can be split into two, with an intermediate belay at the large horn (30 m).
Protection:
The route has 5–6 old pitons and 2 slings/cords, which are not very reliable.
Bring 12 quickdraws, a full set of nuts, a full set of friends (up to Camalot #3), and slings.
Descent:
Two rappels (30 m and 45 m) can be made from the belays of the adjacent route “Limpouros” (from R3–R2 and R2–ground).
The line follows a distinctive dihedral located in the Skoupa area, about 2 m to the right of the engraved arrow marking the start of “Limpouros.”
Pitch 1 (40 m): Climbs straight up through broken terrain to enter the dihedral (up to V+), finishing at a belay on a tree and nuts to the right.
Pitch 2 (50 m): Moves left and up on a slab, then follows the dihedral to a loose section, which is bypassed to the right on a slab and ridge, leading to a ledge (piton).
From there, it climbs a small overhang and continues in the dihedral to a ledge with a horn (cord). Then it continues up and right in the dihedral to another ledge below a vertical red wall, where it traverses right after a short overhang to re-enter the dihedral, ending at the belay (2 bolts with rings).
If rope drag or limited gear becomes an issue, this pitch can be split into two, with an intermediate belay at the large horn (30 m).
Protection:
The route has 5–6 old pitons and 2 slings/cords, which are not very reliable.
Bring 12 quickdraws, a full set of nuts, a full set of friends (up to Camalot #3), and slings.
Descent:
Two rappels (30 m and 45 m) can be made from the belays of the adjacent route “Limpouros” (from R3–R2 and R2–ground).
Access
About 25–35 minutes from the base, in the Skoupa area, 2 m right of the engraved arrow marking the “Limpouros” route.
Approach time: 35 minutes
Recommended Equipment
12 quickdraws
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for 2 rappels)
Helmet
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Slings
Two 60 m ropes (for 2 rappels)
Helmet
