6c voie sportive de 120 m — courte mais exigeante, avec des mouvements continus et un équipement complet sur spits.
6c multi-pitch route (105 m, 3 pitches) in the Tower sector — elegant, demanding, and technical on solid slab with a few runouts.
Technical Details
Length (m)
120.00
Pitches
3
Bolts
21
Belays
2
Rings
1
Description
“Heavy Metal” was first climbed in 1989 by I. Agianiotakis & D. Tsitsikas.
The route begins to the right of “Skala”, on the massive central slab, and is considered one of the most beautiful lines of the sector.
The 1st pitch (9 bolts) starts directly on the slab, then enters a shallow groove leading to a small overhang. The crux (around 6c) lies just below the roof, requiring precision and confidence. Continue over a stable but exposed block, followed by a short overhanging move leading to the belay.
The 2nd pitch (6 bolts) begins leftward into a distinct dihedral. After the second bolt, traverse right (the pitch’s crux, about 6b/6c), then climb a positive slab on good friction and small edges to the belay. Additional natural protection can be placed to reduce the runout.
The 3rd pitch (1 bolt) starts in the dihedral left of the belay, followed by a small overhang protected by the only bolt of the pitch. Continue slightly left through a vegetated groove, finishing on a comfortable ledge to the right.
Early printed guidebooks graded it VII– (≈6b), while later repetitions suggest P1: 6c / P2: 6b+ / P3: 5c, with the first pitch widely accepted as the hardest.
Descent:
Either by the “Kalidonische” rappels (after a short 20–30 m scramble uphill to reach the marked path), or by rappelling directly down the route.
The route begins to the right of “Skala”, on the massive central slab, and is considered one of the most beautiful lines of the sector.
The 1st pitch (9 bolts) starts directly on the slab, then enters a shallow groove leading to a small overhang. The crux (around 6c) lies just below the roof, requiring precision and confidence. Continue over a stable but exposed block, followed by a short overhanging move leading to the belay.
The 2nd pitch (6 bolts) begins leftward into a distinct dihedral. After the second bolt, traverse right (the pitch’s crux, about 6b/6c), then climb a positive slab on good friction and small edges to the belay. Additional natural protection can be placed to reduce the runout.
The 3rd pitch (1 bolt) starts in the dihedral left of the belay, followed by a small overhang protected by the only bolt of the pitch. Continue slightly left through a vegetated groove, finishing on a comfortable ledge to the right.
Early printed guidebooks graded it VII– (≈6b), while later repetitions suggest P1: 6c / P2: 6b+ / P3: 5c, with the first pitch widely accepted as the hardest.
Descent:
Either by the “Kalidonische” rappels (after a short 20–30 m scramble uphill to reach the marked path), or by rappelling directly down the route.
Access
20–30 minutes from the base via the main path leading to “Skala.”
Approach time: 30 minutes
Recommended Equipment
12 quickdraws
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends
2 × 60 m ropes
Helmet and slings
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends
2 × 60 m ropes
Helmet and slings
