Voie de plusieurs longueurs 6c (105 m, 3 longueurs) dans le secteur de la Tour — élégante, technique et exigeante, sur dalle compacte avec quelques passages exposés.
multi-pitch (180 m) at Rubicon — beautiful, well-protected route with varied movement and fully equipped belays.
Technical Details
Length (m)
180.00
Pitches
4
Bolts
4
Belays
5
Rings
0
Description
“Vasiliki Matthaiou” (VII+, 180 m) was opened and first climbed in 2006 by T. Simatis and G. Petromianos.
The line begins about 50 m to the right of “Bright Path” and is considered one of the most elegant routes of the sector.
The crux (VII+) on the 3rd pitch is quite obvious and well-protected, while the 4th pitch requires care near a loose block located 8 m below the belay — no protection should be placed on or near it. About 3 m above this block, a solid medium nut can be placed in a crack to the left. Apart from this section, the 4th pitch is excellent and protects easily.
For the ascent, you’ll need a full set of nuts and a set of friends (up to Camalot #3). All belays are equipped with rings suitable for abseil descent.
The first repeat was made on November 3, 2006, by G. Torelli and N. Karympalis, who freed the A1 section of the 5th pitch, grading it VII-.
The route was named in memory of Vasiliki Matthaiou, who lost her life in the French Alps.
The line begins about 50 m to the right of “Bright Path” and is considered one of the most elegant routes of the sector.
The crux (VII+) on the 3rd pitch is quite obvious and well-protected, while the 4th pitch requires care near a loose block located 8 m below the belay — no protection should be placed on or near it. About 3 m above this block, a solid medium nut can be placed in a crack to the left. Apart from this section, the 4th pitch is excellent and protects easily.
For the ascent, you’ll need a full set of nuts and a set of friends (up to Camalot #3). All belays are equipped with rings suitable for abseil descent.
The first repeat was made on November 3, 2006, by G. Torelli and N. Karympalis, who freed the A1 section of the 5th pitch, grading it VII-.
The route was named in memory of Vasiliki Matthaiou, who lost her life in the French Alps.
Access
From Kryoneri, follow the main climbing path toward the Afrikana area. At the junction, turn right toward “Bright Path.”
The base of the route lies about 50 m to the right of “Bright Path.”
Approach time: approximately 35–45 minutes, depending on pace and load.
The base of the route lies about 50 m to the right of “Bright Path.”
Approach time: approximately 35–45 minutes, depending on pace and load.
Approach time: 45 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Slings for reinforcing belays
Two 60 m ropes (for abseil)
Helmet
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Slings for reinforcing belays
Two 60 m ropes (for abseil)
Helmet
