Voie sportive 7a (40 m) — puissante, technique, avec un crux explosif près du sommet.
135 m sport route at Firefly, with sustained difficulty and beautiful moves on overhangs and slabs.
Technical Details
Length (m)
135.00
Pitches
3
Bolts
38
Belays
2
Rings
1
Description
“Safe Sex” was opened on 29 October 1999 by A. Theodoropoulos and Th. Michailidis, with assistance from P. Kotronaros.
It is a sport multi-pitch route characterized by continuous difficulty almost throughout its entire length.
Pitch 1:
Follows the arête to the left of “Herodes”, on slightly overhanging rock with large pockets. The climbing is enjoyable, though the difficulty is not fully sustained throughout the pitch.
Pitch 2:
About 50 m long, this is the most demanding section, with continuous difficulty, culminating in a smooth slab just before the belay.
Pitch 3:
Begins with a tough bouldery move on sharp holds, then continues more easily to the top.
For the repeat ascent, 14 quickdraws and 4–5 medium nuts are recommended, which can be placed between bolts for extra protection.
Descent:
By three rappels using the route’s belays.
The first repeat ascent of “Safe Sex” was made by K. Tsoulkas and G. Panagos on 30 October 1999.
It is a sport multi-pitch route characterized by continuous difficulty almost throughout its entire length.
Pitch 1:
Follows the arête to the left of “Herodes”, on slightly overhanging rock with large pockets. The climbing is enjoyable, though the difficulty is not fully sustained throughout the pitch.
Pitch 2:
About 50 m long, this is the most demanding section, with continuous difficulty, culminating in a smooth slab just before the belay.
Pitch 3:
Begins with a tough bouldery move on sharp holds, then continues more easily to the top.
For the repeat ascent, 14 quickdraws and 4–5 medium nuts are recommended, which can be placed between bolts for extra protection.
Descent:
By three rappels using the route’s belays.
The first repeat ascent of “Safe Sex” was made by K. Tsoulkas and G. Panagos on 30 October 1999.
Access
About 20–30 minutes from the base, via the main trail leading to the Herodes area within the Firefly sector.
Approach time: 30 minutes
Recommended Equipment
14 quickdraws
4–5 medium nuts (optional, between bolts)
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
4–5 medium nuts (optional, between bolts)
Two 60 m ropes (for 3 rappels)
Helmet
