SHINING PATH

Spectacular and long 600 m route, sustained (VIII), with excellent rock quality and beautifully exposed sections.

“Shining Path” (VIII, 600 m) was completed and first climbed on 24 May 1996 by G. Voutyropoulos, Th. Michailidis, and A. Theodoropoulos.

This is an atmospheric, sustained, and well-protected route, climbing a large grey wall of Varasova, known for its excellent limestone and for being away from the crowded seaside cliffs.

The route is divided into two parts:

The first section (250 m) is technically harder.

The second section (300 m) is more scenic and exposed.

The pitches are generally well-bolted, though some require additional natural protection, so a set of nuts and friends is necessary. All belays are equipped, allowing efficient progression and descent.

Access:
From Kryoneri, follow the trail that leads up toward the summit — about 30 minutes. The route begins directly beneath the large grey wall with a white mark in its center.
The start is on a slab with a hanging sling on the left side of a wall, next to a grassy dihedral.

🧗 Route Overview

Pitch 1 (45 m, VII): Starts on a slab; the first hard move comes at 10 m. The bolt is above the crux — the move must be done before clipping (a pattern repeated in several pitches).

Pitch 2 (35 m, V+): Follows a crack that takes nuts well, then moves right on an inclined slab with big holds toward a tree (belay below it).

Pitch 3 (15 m, VI–): Short, with a steep move through a small overhang.

Pitch 4 (25 m, VII–): Slightly left, then straight up a slab; can be linked with pitch 3.

Pitch 5 (40 m, V+ / VII+): Exposed leftward traverse under overhangs, then follows a white patch straight up a crack and slab.

Pitch 6 (45 m, VIII): The most sustained pitch; follow the bolts carefully, especially above the overhang where vegetation hides them. Last 10 m need nuts.

Pitch 7 (50 m, VI+): Long pitch finishing the first section; manage ropes carefully to avoid drag.

A short walk up and right (scrambling) leads to the second section, below the large amphitheater-like wall.

Pitch 9 (45 m, IV): Easier, passes two trees.

Pitch 10 (50 m, V–): Three bolts; climbs an inclined slab.

Pitch 11 (45 m, IV): Starts right in a dihedral, then traverses leftward below a slab; careful ropework required.

Pitch 12 (25 m, IV): Short slab pitch.

Pitch 13 (40 m, V+): The “jungle pitch” — search for the three bolts among vegetation.

Pitch 14 (25 m, III): Rightward ramp to belay.

Pitch 15 (40 m, VII): Black-streaked slab, well-protected, beautiful moves.

Pitch 16 (25 m, VII+): Straight up, then a leftward traverse to belay.

Pitch 17 (40 m, VI): The most beautiful pitch — aesthetic climbing, impressive exposure, follows the crack above the belay; takes nuts and friends (1.5–3.5).

🧭 Descent Options

Trail to Kryoneri — passes by the base of the route.

Trail to Vasiliki — easiest and quickest (recommended at night), but requires transport back to Kryoneri.

14 rappels down the route — possible but time-consuming.