Grande voie traditionnelle 4c à Rubicon — douce, naturelle et offrant une vue exceptionnelle.
4c multi-pitch 600m on Varasova: imposing, traditional, and exposed line.
Technical Details
Length (m)
600.00
Pitches
14
Bolts
0
Belays
0
Rings
0
Description
The "Unwavering Notch" is one of the most classic and historic multi-pitch routes on Varasova. It follows the impressive northwest ridge of the mountain, parallel to the Classic Notch, offering long and exposed climbing on solid limestone. The difficulty does not exceed 4c, but the length, continuous exposure, and absence of fixed protection make it a serious route of mountaineering character. The climbing alternates between slabs, ramps, and small cracks, with natural protection points and several spots for building anchors. From the summit, the view toward the Gulf of Patras is spectacular.
Access
Starting point from Kryoneri. From the beach, follow the path leading to the Classic Notch area, heading further right (north) from the main entrance of the Classic. The "Unwavering Notch" starts slightly to the right of the base of the Classic Notch, on a visible ridge with a distinctive notch rising from the sea.
Approach time: 25 minutes
Recommended Equipment
2 ropes of 60m (or one 80m with careful management).
Full rack of friends and nuts (small–medium).
Slings and cord for natural anchors.
Helmet (essential).
Light backpack with water, food, and rappel materials.
GPS or map for the descent via the summit trail.
Full rack of friends and nuts (small–medium).
Slings and cord for natural anchors.
Helmet (essential).
Light backpack with water, food, and rappel materials.
GPS or map for the descent via the summit trail.
