Grande voie traditionnelle 4b à Rubicon — facile, historique et agréable.
Historic 4b Multipitch Route, 600 m on Varasova — emblematic, traditional, and airy.
Technical Details
Length (m)
600.00
Pitches
14
Bolts
0
Belays
0
Rings
0
Description
The “Classic Ridge” (Klassiki Kopi) is the most famous and iconic route on Varasova — a long, traditional multipitch climb (~600 m) that follows the mountain’s prominent ridge.
It starts at sea level and tops out on the summit, offering continuous climbing on rough, solid limestone with magnificent views.
The difficulty never exceeds 4b, but the length, exposure, and need for proper protection make it a serious route.
The pitches follow slabs, ramps, and small cracks, with plenty of natural features for placing gear.
There are no fixed protections or belays; all anchors must be built by the climber.
It’s a classic mountain route, essential for anyone wanting to experience Varasova’s character.
It starts at sea level and tops out on the summit, offering continuous climbing on rough, solid limestone with magnificent views.
The difficulty never exceeds 4b, but the length, exposure, and need for proper protection make it a serious route.
The pitches follow slabs, ramps, and small cracks, with plenty of natural features for placing gear.
There are no fixed protections or belays; all anchors must be built by the climber.
It’s a classic mountain route, essential for anyone wanting to experience Varasova’s character.
Access
Start from Kryoneri.
From the beach, walk along the coastline toward the base of the large sector of the Classic Ridge.
The start of the route is located right above the sea, on the distinctive ridge that dominates the middle of the cliff.
From the beach, walk along the coastline toward the base of the large sector of the Classic Ridge.
The start of the route is located right above the sea, on the distinctive ridge that dominates the middle of the cliff.
Approach time: 25 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of cams and nuts
Slings and cordelettes for natural anchors
Helmet (essential due to potential rockfall)
Light backpack with water, food, and gear for rappelling/descent
GPS or map for the descent path from the summit
Slings and cordelettes for natural anchors
Helmet (essential due to potential rockfall)
Light backpack with water, food, and gear for rappelling/descent
GPS or map for the descent path from the summit
