Spasmena

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Spasmena

The “Spasmena” Sector of Varasova

The “Spasmena” sector is one of the wildest and most striking parts of Mount Varasova. Its name, meaning “Spasmena”, comes from the fractured nature of the rock — large cracks, detached slabs, and dramatic fissures that form a powerful geological landscape. The limestone is rugged and raw, offering challenging routes that demand technique, strength, and full focus.

 

The atmosphere at Spasmena is both imposing and tranquil. From its walls, climbers enjoy breathtaking views of the sea and the Evinos River, surrounded by a landscape that feels untouched and alive. This is a sector for those who seek authenticity and intensity — a place where the mountain speaks through its breaks and scars.

Spasmena

Explore Varasova’s Climbing Sectors

17

Routes

162

Bolts

52

Belays

4c
PINOCCHIO
Spasmena 4c 100.00M
4 10 0 4
“Pinocchio” was opened in April 1999 by A. Theodoropoulos, Th. Michailidis, and P. Kotronaros.

The line is densely bolted, even on the easier sections, making it an excellent recommendation for new climbers and climbing school graduates.
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5c
PUBLIC
Spasmena 5c 120.00M
3 13 0 4
5c, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — enjoyable sport route with great flow and beautiful views.
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5b
ΤΑΖ
Spasmena 5b 120.00M
3 5 0 4
5b, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — mixed, mild, and enjoyable training route.
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4c
RELAX
Spasmena 4c 120.00M
3 11 0 4
4c, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — easy, well-bolted, and ideal for beginners.
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5c
ALKISTIS
Spasmena 5c 40.00M
1 6 0 2
5c, 40 m sport route at Broken Rocks — beautiful single-pitch with a technical slab and good protection.
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4c
ANASTASIA
Spasmena 4c 120.00M
3 4 0 4
4c, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — gentle, mixed, and ideal for beginner climbers.
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5c
ROAD OF FLOWERS DIRECT
Spasmena 5c 40.00M
1 2 0 1
5c, 40 m mixed route at Broken Rocks — beautiful, short, and requiring natural protection.
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5a
ROAD OF FLOWERS
Spasmena 5a 120.00M
3 6 0 3
5a, 100 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — classic, well-protected, and ideal for beginners or climbing schools.
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5c
CALYDONIAN BOAR
Spasmena 5c 160.00M
3 21 0 3
An easy and beautiful 100 m sport route at Broken Rocks, fully bolted and ideal for beginner climbers.
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6a+
KRISTIE
Spasmena 6a+ 80.00M
2 10 0 3
6a+, 80 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — beautiful, technical, and well-equipped sport route.
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5b
LOUFA
Spasmena 5b 120.00M
3 12 0 4
5b, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — pleasant, solid, and ideal for beginners.
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6a
BARBIE
Spasmena 6a 120.00M
3 20 0 3
6a, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — technical, well-bolted, and enjoyable route.
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4b
SCHOOL RIDGE
Spasmena 4b 120.00M
3 4 0 3
4b, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — easy, instructional, and ideal for beginners.
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5b
TRAVERSA
Spasmena 5b 90.00M
2 3 0 0
5b, 90 m at Broken Rocks — a mixed route on a natural line, with exposed sections and beautiful views.
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5c
GENERALI
Spasmena 5c 160.00M
4 26 0 4
5c, 160 m multi-pitch route at Broken Rocks — a technical, well-protected, and continuous sport climb.
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4b
WIDOW
Spasmena 4b 120.00M
3 3 0 4
4b, 120 m, multi-pitch route at Broken Rocks, a gentle mixed climb with pleasant flow and low difficulty.
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5c
MEMORANDUM
Spasmena 5c 170.00M
3 6 0 3
A classic sport climbing route in the Βroken rocks sector of Varasova, of moderate difficulty.
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Discover the climbing areas of Varasova through this video

Explore the Routes
17
17

17

Routes
Broken Rocks

An area with character and an intense climbing experience

Location

Southern sector, also known for the route “Kalydonian Boar”

Orientation

Southwest

Characteristics

Fractured rock with cracks and slabs

Routes

Traditional multi-pitch climbs, mixed character

Notes

Easy access from the parking area, but requires experience