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4b
SCHOOL RIDGE
4b, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — easy, instructional, and ideal for beginners.
5b
TRAVERSA
5b, 90 m at Broken Rocks — a mixed route on a natural line, with exposed sections and beautiful views.
5c
GENERALI
5c, 160 m multi-pitch route at Broken Rocks — a technical, well-protected, and continuous sport climb.
4b
WIDOW
4b, 120 m, multi-pitch route at Broken Rocks, a gentle mixed climb with pleasant flow and low difficulty.
5c
MEMORANDUM
A classic sport climbing route in the Βroken rocks sector of Varasova, of moderate difficulty.

Spasmena

Περιοχη

The “Spasmena” Sector of Varasova

The “Spasmena” sector is one of the wildest and most striking parts of Mount Varasova. Its name, meaning “Spasmena”, comes from the fractured nature of the rock — large cracks, detached slabs, and dramatic fissures that form a powerful geological landscape. The limestone is rugged and raw, offering challenging routes that demand technique, strength, and full focus.

 

The atmosphere at Spasmena is both imposing and tranquil. From its walls, climbers enjoy breathtaking views of the sea and the Evinos River, surrounded by a landscape that feels untouched and alive. This is a sector for those who seek authenticity and intensity — a place where the mountain speaks through its breaks and scars.

Spasmena

Explore Varasova’s Climbing Sectors

17

Routes

162

Bolts

52

Belays

Discover the climbing areas of Varasova through this video

Explore the Routes
17
17

17

Routes
Broken Rocks

An area with character and an intense climbing experience

Location

Southern sector, also known for the route “Kalydonian Boar”

Orientation

Southwest

Characteristics

Fractured rock with cracks and slabs

Routes

Traditional multi-pitch climbs, mixed character

Notes

Easy access from the parking area, but requires experience
4c
PINOCCHIO
“Pinocchio” was opened in April 1999 by A. Theodoropoulos, Th. Michailidis, and P. Kotronaros.

The line is densely bolted, even on the easier sections, making it an excellent recommendation for new climbers and climbing school graduates.
4c
RELAX
4c, 120 m multi-pitch at Broken Rocks — easy, well-bolted, and ideal for beginners.