Voie sportive 5b (80 m, 2 longueurs) — facile, agréable et idéale pour les débutants.
Classic 220 m route with beautiful dihedrals and slabs, good protection, and a clean line.
Technical Details
Length (m)
220.00
Pitches
5
Bolts
7
Belays
5
Rings
1
Description
“Toxo” was opened in 1975 by M. Tsourtis and K. Gekas.
The route follows the characteristic arch formation to the right of the slab where “African” is located.
Pitch 1 (40 m): Starts from a large ledge at the beginning of the arch and moves up a positive slab to the right. Continue along the ridge (IV), then to the right of the slab (IV–), avoiding the crack on the left (difficult exit), and climb a positive ramp to the belay — a large block with a sling, reinforced with small nuts. About 4–5 m lower and to the right, an alternative belay with bolts from the route “Efaptomeni” can also be used.
Pitch 2 (35 m): Climb a small dihedral above, then follow the right dihedral (V, piton) to reach a slab on the right (V, hole). Traverse left under a large block (V–) and belay above it using medium nuts and small friends, reinforcing the two old pitons.
Pitch 3 (35 m): Climb straight up (V+), then move right onto a slab with pockets (piton), and enter a left-facing dihedral (V). Exit right (V+) to a small ledge, then continue on a grassy ramp to the belay on old nuts (reinforce with your own gear).
Pitch 4 (35 m): Go straight up a dihedral (V–), then onto a right-hand slab (V), continuing under the characteristic overhanging arch to the left. About halfway along the arch, step right over it (V+) via an easy dihedral and traverse right on a ramp (IV–) to a tree where belay is made on old pitons reinforced with a large hole placement.
Pitch 5 (45 m): Climb a few meters up the slab (IV+, piton and hole), continue up and right on the slab (V–, piton and hole) to a characteristic dihedral, which you climb (V). At the end, move right (IV) under a red overhang, then ascend easy positive slabs trending right to reach the final belay of the route “Gonia” (V–).
The route follows the characteristic arch formation to the right of the slab where “African” is located.
Pitch 1 (40 m): Starts from a large ledge at the beginning of the arch and moves up a positive slab to the right. Continue along the ridge (IV), then to the right of the slab (IV–), avoiding the crack on the left (difficult exit), and climb a positive ramp to the belay — a large block with a sling, reinforced with small nuts. About 4–5 m lower and to the right, an alternative belay with bolts from the route “Efaptomeni” can also be used.
Pitch 2 (35 m): Climb a small dihedral above, then follow the right dihedral (V, piton) to reach a slab on the right (V, hole). Traverse left under a large block (V–) and belay above it using medium nuts and small friends, reinforcing the two old pitons.
Pitch 3 (35 m): Climb straight up (V+), then move right onto a slab with pockets (piton), and enter a left-facing dihedral (V). Exit right (V+) to a small ledge, then continue on a grassy ramp to the belay on old nuts (reinforce with your own gear).
Pitch 4 (35 m): Go straight up a dihedral (V–), then onto a right-hand slab (V), continuing under the characteristic overhanging arch to the left. About halfway along the arch, step right over it (V+) via an easy dihedral and traverse right on a ramp (IV–) to a tree where belay is made on old pitons reinforced with a large hole placement.
Pitch 5 (45 m): Climb a few meters up the slab (IV+, piton and hole), continue up and right on the slab (V–, piton and hole) to a characteristic dihedral, which you climb (V). At the end, move right (IV) under a red overhang, then ascend easy positive slabs trending right to reach the final belay of the route “Gonia” (V–).
Access
About 10–15 minutes from the base of “African,” heading right to the characteristic arch.
Approach time: 15 minutes
Recommended Equipment
Full set of nuts
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Several slings for extensions and threads
Full set of friends (up to Camalot #3)
Several slings for extensions and threads